Monday, March 23, 2020

Lesson 4 of the Lutterloh Sew Along Master Class

Lesson 4 of our sew along gives you even more variety for a wardrobe in the making. This time, a notched collar blouse that has a shoulder yoke and smart short sleeves ideal for those warmer days. I have chosen to do a blouse for our fourth lesson because now we get to learn some of the finer clothing making skills like setting in sleeves, adding a facing and achieving a good fitting garment as a whole. I figured a blouse would serve as a good stepping stone to the dresses as well because a dress really is a blouse with a skirt slapped on it, isn't it? 

For fabrics, you can do a cotton, a fine wool, a silk, you name it. . .. Let your imagination and needs go wild and choose what will work for you. If you are a beginner, I recommend a good quilters cotton. . .They are rather affordable, come in a variety of colors and prints, and are easy to work with generally. For this blouse, it is illustrated with some lovely embellishment which you could add or omit based on your needs and skill level. For me, I am letting my fabric do the talking and will not be embellishing mine very much beyond maybe some top stitching and some snazzy buttons. If you choose to add some unique embellishment do share so we can grow and be inspired from your creativity! 
Below, the pattern you will need. Our pattern is the bottom half. I included the whole sheet of patterns because some of you expressed interest in the other blouse (the top one). I will only be walking you through the notched collar blouse here.  

To assemble this one, you can start where ever you want but I chose to start by assembling my back pieces first. The lower back was gathered into the yoke and then I top stitched it for added stability. Then I set the back aside and worked on the front. The lower front of the blouse was stitched to the shoulder yoke and then top stitched too. I did not have to ease or gather the shoulder to fit the yoke.  I then stitched the front and back together at the shoulder. 
blouse back wrong side 

blouse back right side 

The collar. I stitched up my upper collar around the edge and then I lined up the center back of the collar to the center back of the blouse. . .I then stitched the collar into place. To finish the blouse front, you will need to make a facing as the patters do not have one for you. I have on FB placed a video tutorial for you for reference on making a facing. Do refer to it if you need it. To apply the facing, sew the facing to the blouse right sides together at the front and then turn. Press. Your blouse front is finished once you add the facing and buttons (or snaps). Sew up the blouse side seams if you have not done so already. 
blouse front with shoulder yoke sewn on 

pinning on the collar . . . . 

collar getting sewn on . . . . 

Sleeves. These sleeves here are plain shirt sleeves. They are illustrated with a cuff but there is no pattern given for cuffs. . .I did not do cuffs for my blouse. For the sleeves, sew the underarm seam up. I did not have to run ease stitches along the sleeve top/ crown but you many want to for fitting ease. To insert the sleeve, line up the underarm seam of the sleeve to the blouse seam. Pin and sew easing the sleeve into the arm hole. This sleeve fits into the arm hole pretty well and really does not need lots of gathers. 
where the seams meet . . . Above is the sleeve under arm seam and 
just below is the blouse side seam 

 There you go! Lesson 4 blouse all done! 

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